The Allure of Tabanan’s Green Majesty
Tabanan, often called the “Green Heart of Bali,” lies in the island’s western region, about an hour and a half from Ubud or Denpasar. It’s a land of misty hills, emerald rice fields, and ancient temples that rest quietly between forested mountains. Away from the crowded tourist centers, Tabanan offers travelers a pure taste of Balinese life — calm, spiritual, and close to nature.
Here, you’ll walk among rolling terraces carved by centuries of devotion and find temples hidden behind lush forests in villages like Penebel, Pupuan, and Baturiti. Tabanan invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and discover Bali’s timeless beauty.
Why Tabanan Is Called Bali’s “Green Heart”
A Land of Endless Rice Terraces
Stretching across gentle hills and river valleys, Tabanan is known for its endless rice fields that glow in every shade of green. Farmers in the area still rely on traditional techniques to maintain their terraces, particularly in Jatiluwih Village (Penebel District) and Belimbing Village (Pupuan District). These landscapes change with the seasons, from vivid emerald during planting to golden hues before harvest — creating a living painting that captures Bali’s rural essence.
The Subak System: Harmony Between Nature and Spirit
These terraces are part of the ancient Subak irrigation system, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that originated in Tabanan. More than a network of canals, the Subak represents Tri Hita Karana — harmony between humans, nature, and the divine. Nowhere is this philosophy more visible than in the perfectly balanced terraces of Jatiluwih, where farmers still make daily offerings to the water temples that sustain their crops.
Top Rice Terraces to Visit in Tabanan
Jatiluwih Rice Terraces
Located in Jatiluwih Village, Penebel District, the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces are the crown jewel of Tabanan. Covering about 600 hectares on the southern slopes of Mount Batukaru, they offer panoramic views, peaceful walking paths, and a deep sense of calm. Visitors can follow well-marked trails or join local guides who share stories of farming rituals and the Subak’s history. The area is cool, serene, and one of the most photogenic spots in Bali.
Belimbing Rice Terraces
About 30 kilometers west of Jatiluwih, in Belimbing Village, Pupuan District, you’ll find another breathtaking landscape. The Belimbing Rice Terraces are less crowded, making them ideal for travelers who seek quiet and authenticity. These fields are surrounded by clove trees and small waterfalls that add to their charm. Local farmers often wave as you pass, embodying the warmth of rural Bali.
Yeh Gangga Fields and Coastal Views
For a completely different view, head south toward Yeh Gangga, near Tabanan Town. This is one of the few places where rice fields meet the sea. The sight of green terraces descending toward black volcanic sands and crashing waves creates a surreal contrast. Yeh Gangga is also known for its peaceful beaches and horseback riding at sunset, a perfect combination of culture and coastal beauty.
Hidden Temples and Sacred Corners of Tabanan
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan: Temple on the Lake
Situated in Candikuning Village, Baturiti District, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan rests gracefully on the shores of Lake Beratan in the Bedugul Highlands. Its floating pagoda-like shrines mirror beautifully on the calm lake surface, honoring Dewi Danu, the goddess of water and fertility. The temple’s setting against misty mountains is among Bali’s most iconic scenes.
Pura Luhur Batukaru: Temple in the Mist
Nestled in Wongaya Gede Village, Penebel District, on the forested slopes of Mount Batukaru, this ancient temple is often shrouded in cool mountain mist. It’s one of Bali’s nine directional temples and is dedicated to Mahadewa, the guardian of the western region. The serene atmosphere and surrounding rainforest make Pura Luhur Batukaru a powerful spiritual retreat.
Pura Tamba Waras: Healing and Legends
In Sangketan Village, near Penebel, lies Pura Luhur Tamba Waras, a temple believed to have miraculous healing powers. Local legend says it was built on the spot where a Balinese king once recovered from illness. Today, villagers come here to pray for physical and spiritual balance amid the tranquil forest surroundings.
Nature Exploration and Short Treks in Tabanan
Jatiluwih Trekking Trails
The Jatiluwih area is not only a UNESCO site but also a paradise for short treks. Located in Penebel District, these trails lead you through rice paddies, bamboo groves, and small traditional villages. Each route offers breathtaking views of Mount Batukaru and the layered terraces below. The cool air and peaceful setting make it an ideal escape for both beginners and experienced walkers.
Mount Batukaru Hike
Rising 2,276 meters above sea level, Mount Batukaru dominates the landscape of Tabanan. The main hiking route starts from Wongaya Gede Village, near Pura Luhur Batukaru. The trek takes about five hours to the summit and rewards climbers with views stretching from Bali’s southern coast to the Java Sea. It’s a sacred mountain, so visitors are encouraged to hike respectfully and avoid loud noise.
Waterfalls and Secret Forest Paths
Hidden within the lush interiors of Tabanan Regency are several small waterfalls worth exploring. In Pujungan Village (Pupuan District) lies Blahmantung Waterfall, a dramatic cascade tucked within coffee plantations. Closer to the coast, in Antap Village, Selemadeg District, stands Pura Luhur Srijong, where a smaller waterfall meets the sea near the temple grounds. Both offer serene, uncrowded experiences for nature lovers.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Tabanan complements its natural beauty. Stay in eco-lodges or village homestays around Jatiluwih, Belimbing, or Baturiti for a peaceful retreat. Many eco-resorts here promote sustainable tourism, allowing guests to participate in rice planting or cooking classes with local families.
Conclusion
Exploring Tabanan’s rice terraces and hidden temples is more than a trip — it’s a journey into Bali’s living culture. Every terrace, trail, and temple reflects the island’s deep respect for nature and spirit.
Whether you’re trekking through Jatiluwih’s green waves, praying at Pura Batukaru, or watching the sunrise over Belimbing Village, Tabanan offers a harmony that lingers in memory long after you leave.
